Check battery volts, cranking power (bad cell possible).
Alternator or regulator
Bad connection or corroded connection.
BATTERY OVERHEATING-MELTED TERMINALS
Inspect battery cable. Be sure it is clean and tight. Look for corrosion, wear, age, looseness, dirt.
Check your grounds.
Check your starter.
Note: If you have wingnuts holding down the eyelet-end of the battery cable on a 5/16 stud then we recommend cutting off eyelet ends and replacing with good battery cable, post clamps.
BATTERY, TO DETERMINE IF A DRAW ON BATTERY
Disconnect negative cable on the battery.
Use test light between the negative battery cable and negative battery post. If its lights, there is a draw. (Circuit is completed through the negative terminal to the negative cable through the test light.)
Stereo, horn anything will light it.
BILGE PUMP NOT RUNNING
Check fuse/circuit breaker, to see if it has popped.
Check power to pump with a test light probe.
Activate float switch-listen if it comes on.
Check pump for debris in grooves.
Note: Float switch is located near the pump at the lowest point of the bilge. (There is a positive lead from the battery to float switch. Float switch provides positive wire to the pump).
HOLLEY CARB ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS
Rev up the engine to clear it out.
Turn air screw in until you hear engine begin to bog and miss.
Now, turn the screw out with 1/2 increments until you hear that the engine is steady and running smoothly.
Repeat procedure on air screw on the opposite side of the metering block
Question 1:What is normal operating temp for your boat? Question 2:Does it stabilize? As long as it stabilizes you are generally okay.
ALWAYS Start At The Source, at the Clamshell or the Water Pickup.
Check Transmission Cooler For Blockage.
Check Water Strainer for O-ring.
Check Impeller for wear.
Run a Volume Efficiency Test on R/W pump (15 sec, 3000 RPMs to fill a 5 gal. Bucket). Determines if the problem is before or after the R/W pump.
Remove Thermostat, see if it runs cool indicating you had a stuck thermostat. Replace if necessary.
Check the circulating pump:
Screw hose barb into engine block drain.
Rev engine, it should shoot water out.
If it dribbles out, you've proven circ pump is bad.
Check Gauge By: Taking the wire off and ground it. If it peg's gauge, that indicates gage working and you may have a sender problem.
Do the hand test on each riser. If the top of the riser gets too hot to touch, you're overheating the exhaust system.
THE BOTTOM LINE IS-Building up the heat at idle is generally an impeller problem!
NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH
A neutral safety switch is to preclude engine from starting unless you're in neutral.
To verify the safety switch is working properly, tie wires to one side of the neutral safety switch. If the engine starts each and every time, the neutral safety switch was causing your interference.
Question 1:When was fluid last changed? Question 2:What is the fluid level
Minimal slipping usually is just a matter of adding more fluid. NOTE: New transmissions are recommended only when teeth on gears are broken on the input shaft\output shaft or on planetary gears OR when case is broken.
WATER TEMP SENDER
Take the wire off and ground it on the block of the engine.
If it pegs the gauge with the key on, the wiring and gauge are working, and it's probably a bad sender or connection.